Siquijor Island

Siquijor, was established in 1783 under the administration of secular clergymen. In the years that followed until 1877, the parishes of Larena (Cano-an), Lazi,Siquijor, (Tigbawan), Siquijor, San Juan (Makalipay), and Maria (Cangmeniac) were founded by priests of the Augustinian.

Siquijor has a reputation for being and island of Black magic and mystery. Even today witch doctors or shaman practice their ancient art. There is a strong belief among many Filipinos in black magic, or as we might refer to them today traditional beliefs in ancient medicine and animism. It is a fact that Imelda Marcos regularly consulted a practitioner of medicine from Siquijor. Whether you believe in these practices or not, Siquijor offers many wonderful things to see and experience. Unbelievably clean waters for scuba diving, first class resorts, and rugged mountain terrain with waterfalls. There are also ancient Spanish missions to visit.

Tanjay, Peaceful, Friendly City

I made the drive from Dumaguete to Tanjay last Friday. It was a holiday, so the traffic was not so terrible. I was able to complete the drive in less than an hour. Considering the ongoing road repair, this was not bad.

I have always liked Tanjay, it is clean, and it has just enough amenities to make it attractive to me as a potential residence. Tanjay is what Dumaguete was 15 years ago. If simple living without malls, McDonalds, and movie theaters is attractive to you, Tanjay might be a good choice.

Tanjay is a relatively affluent town. There are many Filipino bussiness owners living there, as well as seamen and their families. There are many clean streets with quaint houses lining the way. A residential town, Tanjay has a relatively quiet ambiance.

There are accomodations for visitors ranging from Nelia's lodge at 300 pesos per night to other pension houses nearer to town for 1000 pesos. There are a few upscale restaurants, A Scoobies fast food, and of course an extensive local market located in the middle of the city.

During weekend evenings, you will find the Park Cafe the buzzing spot for young people. Bands play in the park every Friday and people gather to listen while socializing over a red horse or two. It is a simple life, small town Philippine style. Night markets are open near the Park, and people stroll in the early evening hours to see and be seen. Food vendors and small restarants beckon with wonderful smells wafting into the street as you amble by.

Located between Dumaguete and Bais on the national highway, Tanjay is easy to find, and worth the time to do a little exploring. If you play golf, the turn off to Pamplona golf course is at the soth end of town. Bais with it's famous whale watching is only a short drive North.

Casaroro Falls in Valencia

Casaroro Falls in Valencia is only 10 kilometers from Dumaguete. Visitors to Dumaguete often trek to this tourist spot to sample the mountain adventures available in Negros. An hour’s jeepney ride will easily take visitors to this spot. A private van hired for a trip to this tourist spot near Dunaguete is about 1000 pesos ($20.00).

Casaroro Falls is hidden deep in the crevices of the rough Valencia mountains. Casaroro Falls feeds the Banica river from the natural rock basin beneath the waterfalls. This eco tourist spot near Dumaguete originates from a 100-foot high natural spring water source, and is fed by the seasonal rains. The narrow path to the mouth of the falls is one of its unique features, the relatively narrow water flow out of its mouth creates a resounding boom as it hits the rock basin. The loud droning effect is a hypnotizing constant drum beat that makes the environment seem primordial. You can easily imagine yourself in a place untouched by time.

Casaroro Falls features a challenging 350-step climb to the site from the level ground below. The undulating character of the terrain makes this tourist spot near Dumaguete a favorite hiking destination of novice hikers and climbers. Along the climb, sightings of rare birds may provide respite and renewed vigor for the climber, take plenty of bottled water as well!.

Enjoying the waterfalls doesn’t come without first testing the endurance and determination of the visitor, only those with enough perseverance and stamina for the steep climbing get to see this spectacular waterfall near Dumaguete. The 300 plus step concrete staircase is the only link to this tourist spot near Dumaguete.

The Casaroro Falls eco tourism destination near Dumaguete is worth the effort to find it . An adventurous tourist who wants excitement and adventure against a backdrop of rocky mountains and rough terrain will no doubt enjoy this challenge.

Timing your visit is important, during the rainy season the falls are full and spectacular, but it is dangerous to make the trek at this time. Best to wait until after the rainy period and before the summer dry period. this of course varies from year to year. Use common sense as there are no park rangers to save you if you get in trouble. That said there are locals who will be happy to escort you down and back for a small fee.

Dauin Diving Paradise

Dauin is a low-profile tourist destination where scenic spots abound but has a sheltered laid back ambiance. This picturesque town near Dumaguete reveals a unique and mostly uncharted sea underworld as well as many virgin dive sites. Dauin is a diver's paradise.

A small and quiet place where big treasures are hidden underwater---this is what Dauin is to most tourists who have gone to Dumaguete, Negros Oriental. Dauin is some 12 kilometers of coastal scenery south of Dumaguete. It is a dive-capital in Dumaguete due to its numerous and pristine dive resorts. Dauin's main highway snakes along the Negros coast, while inner roads go past the groves of palms leading to the hidden resorts. Perfect beaches of fine sand stretch on for miles through Dauin seaside terrain.

Dauin is reached through a plane from any nearby provinces going to Sibulan Airport which is in Dumaguete City. From the airport, public transportation is available nearby to Dauin. Straight from Manila, a tourist can take a plane to Cebu and a ferry ride from Cebu, enjoying a 3 and half hour sea trek. Better yet, a straight flight from Manila will only be an hour's travel.

Dauin may seem like another typical rural town near Dumaguete at first glance, but its true tourism value is hidden deep beneath---one has to literally delve and uncover the potential of Dauin. In fact, Dauin's treasure lies buried, not in depths of earth, but in the obscure recesses of Dauin waters. Dauin's most fabled exotic dive spots are the marine protected areas and the "Car Wrecks".

When we talk of Dauin, we talk of the Car Wrecks---the specific spot in Dumaguete where a plethora of sea wreckages abound, among them automobiles. Dauin's "Car Wrecks" is a highlight among other dive sites in the area that attracts the curiosity of dive tourists. Another enchanting site is the "Banca Wrecks". The rich coral reefs that have grown among the wrecks are also eye-catching and loaded with deep sea life.

Nearby Dauin is the fascinating Masaplod marine sanctuary. This spot is reserved as a habitat for exotic fish species like scorpionfish, batfish, snappers, sweetlips, and others. Dauin's scenic coasts are dotted with reefs that shelter marine wonders. These are considered among Asia's best.

Dumaguete is definitely excellent, but wait till Dauin's secrets are revealed. A wide-eyed dive tourist will certainly return to Dauin and its rich underwater sea treasures, considered in Dumaguete as one of Asia's best. Dauin is one more dive destination near Dumaguete worth the trouble to discover.

Bahura Resort

Bahura Resort and Spa is a first class 5 star beach resort located in Dauin near Dumaguete City. Bahura Resort and Spa offers accommodations and many other services such as diving and eco tourism, as well as adventure tourism in the nearby mountains.

Bahura Resort and Spa is a 5 hectare plot situated in the middle of a ocean side coconut plantation. The resort is designed to be a tropical self contained venue for those looking for a 5 star experience. Staying at Bahura Resort and Spa is refreshing, relaxing, and rewarding for anyone visiting Dumaguete.

The villas of Bahura Resort and Spa have loft bedrooms, a full bar setup, a mini kitchen, an entertainment system, and bathroom equipped with whirlpool tub and shower. The villas at Bahura Resort and Spa are 61 square meters.

The rooms at Bahura Resort and Spa are spacious. All rooms are equipped with two queen-sized beds, entertainment system, shower stall, and safe deposit box.

Bahura Resort and Spa also offers the following facilities and services to their guests: conference rooms, al fresco dining area, room service, spring water pools, laundry services, airport transfers, various water sports, souvenir shop, PADI dive center, and local tours to the various interesting places in Dumaguete.

While staying at Bahura Resort and Spa, you can participate in activities that will make your stay memorable and adventurous. The Negros province where Bahura Resort and Spa is located is full of natural wonders that are waiting to be explored. There are crater lakes, mountains, underground caves, waterfalls, and dolphin watching.

Activities like hiking, kayaking, picnicing at the beach, and diving, are great adventures to take part in while you are staying at Bahura Resort and Spa.

Bahura Resort and Spa is a top notch resort in the Dumaguete area where your vacation will be one of the most memorable ones in your life. Lying within a tropical garden, in a place full of natural attractions and wonders, Bahura Resort and Spa will offer you a rewarding, refreshing, and relaxing vacation in Dumaguete.

Dumaguete Belfry Tower

The bell tower of St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral was constructed in 1811. It's purpose was to inform local citizens of daily mass schedules. It also served as a watchtower for forthcoming attacks by Moro pirates coming from Mindanao.

The Dumaguete Belfry was restored in 1985 and has since become a popular landmark. A garden now surrounds the tower and a grotto of the Virgin Mary stands erect near the base. Catholics flock daily to light candles for their prayers or for confirmation of their faith.

The Dumaguete Belfry is one of the most famous historical landmarks in Dumaguete. There are few remaining artifacts and historical building dating back to the Spanish era. The notable exception are the large number of Spanish era cathedrals scattered throughout Negros. I have upcoming articles and photos of some of these.

The Belfry photographed at the turn of the 20th Century.

Bais Whale Watching

Bais City is known for its proximity to a protected marine sanctuary in the Tañon Strait. Dense Mangrove forrests line Bais Bay. This is a natural feeding ground for cetaceans. Dolphins especially like the Mangrove forests growing into the bay to cruise for food. From the Capiñahan Wharf in the South Bay, several boats head out to the Bais Bay and into the Tañon Strait where the dolphins frolic in the water, and the whales emerge from the deep. It is fascinating to see these sea creatures up close. Other activities include swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling and scuba diving in the nearby reefs.
Dolphin and Whale Watching in Bais City
The adventure starts with a cruise along Bais Bay then out to Tañon Strait, the natural habitat of several whale and dolphin species. Among the kinds of dolphins you may encounter during the trip are, spotted dolphins, bottlenose dolphins and long snouted spinner dolphins. Melon headed whales, short finned pilot whales, pygmy sperm whales, pygmy killer whales and dwarf sperm whales are also found in the Tañon Strait.

After seeing Dolphins and maybe a whale, you will head out to Manjuyod White Sand Bar where the boat drops anchor. Here you can enjoy your lunch of grilled pork or fish while looking out onto the blue sea and the white sands of Manjuyod. This place is also ideal for swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling and scuba diving. The bamboo houses on stilts are available for overnight lodging if your so inclined. Be aware at high tide the sand bar disappears beneath your cabin and you are for all practical purposes in the middle of the bay in a house on stilts!

The tour takes a full day beginning from seven in the morning and ending at four in the afternoon. The dolphin and whale watching seasons are during the months of March to October. The rest of the year is affected by the Northeast Monsoon which makes cruising difficult. The wind and waves also inhibit the dolphins and whales from surfacing.

Bais Hotels
If you plan to stay the night at Bais City there are two hotels available. One is the Bahia Hotel, a small hilltop inn with a room rate of P700 for a basic double accommodation. The other is La Planta Hotel located within Bais City proper with room rates beginning from P1,000 to P1,700.

Bais Tourism Office (035)541-5161 / 402-8174 Fax (035)402-8181

Bahia Hotel (035)402-8850 / 402-8851

La Planta Hotel (035)403-8321 / 541-5755

How to get to Bais
Bais City is less than an hour away from Dumaguete. The Capiñahan Wharf in South Bais Bay is the most convenient point of take off to Tañon Strait. The best and most cost effective way is to organize a group and rent a van in Dumaguete to bring you to the Capiñahan Wharf. The reason being that the boats are not scheduled tours but really charters, you rent the boat which can hold up to 5-20 persons depending on the craft. The rental boat that will take you out to the Strait costs between P2,500 to P3,000 depending on the number of people boarding. Being in a group allows you to split the transportation costs.

Who is Visiting Dumaguete?

I pulled this interesting statistic from a local news article. It shows quite clearly the trend in tourism and visitors to Dumaguete. A 13% increase in visitors from other countries with Koreans leading 3:1 over Americans, the next highest number of foreign nationals.

"Negros Oriental Alien Control Officer Peter Bueno disclosed that his office collected P13,826,110 (US$307,797) in 2007, almost 14 per cent higher than the 2006 collection of P11,915,029.65.

Bueno said the bulk of the fees collected was from tourists who visited the province last year.

Records show that in 2007, almost 1,000 tourists had visited Negros Oriental, with Koreans topping the list at 330, followed by Americans, 105, British, 46, and Germans, 25, and Japanese, 22.

The Bureau of Immigration is an attached agency of the Department of Justice and collects fees from foreign students, tourists and aliens taking up temporary or permanent residence here."

Visiting Siaton

Since family ties are so important here in the Philippines, we have occasion to visit Siaton somewhat frequently. Siaton is a very small town at the tip of Oriental Negros. Traveling south from Dumaguete, it is about a hours drive if you go slowly. If you are a dare devil motorcycle rider(I am not) the trip can be done in 40 minutes.

The first thing that strikes you about Siaton are the bountiful and verdant rice plantations as you enter town. Fed and irrigated by two rivers, Siaton is an agricultural center in the region. In that way Siaton is more or less the main market town for Southern Negros Oriental. Much of it's bounty heads north to Dumaguete for distribution there. Truckloads of fish, rice, and produce find there way north to the larger markets.

Siaton is a quiet villiage, with only a few modern bussinesses. There is a wet market, town square, and a satellite campus of NORSU University. A sleepy town, with mostly bicycle pedicabs, Siaton has a quite charm of its' own. If you are an expat you will be looked at with curiousity although nearby Tambobo Bay supplies a limited flow of forein visitors to town. English is no as freely spoken as in Dumaguete, but as this is still largely a province town, that is not surprising.

The beaches of Siaton are expansive and consist mostly of brown sand, normally almost deserted as far as recreational use is concerned. You will find mostly native houses and fishing boats along the shore line. I had the occasion to spend a day at the families beach cabana a few days ago. the pictures show the way the Philippines was everywhere only a few years ago. It was a pleasant change fom the crowded beaches surrounding Dumaguete. Sitting there having a beer and eating barbecue, it was not hard for me to imagine being in the Philippines of 100 years ago.

Siaton, a worthwhile stop if you are traveling to Lake Balanan just south of town.

Rizal Boulevard Dumaguete

The Boulevard, as it is called here in Dumaguete, is the social and entertainment district in town. All visitors eventually gravitate here as it has some of the most popular restaurants, discos, and lodging establishments in Dumaguete. The very well known Why Not disco is the hallmark night spot, and a variety of other establishments offer Karaoke, live music, and food in a variety of cuisines.

Historically the port of Dumaguete beckoned both Spanish missionaries, pirates, and traders from throughout the Philippines. Today, the commercial port in Dumaguete brings tourists, freight and travelers from Cebu, Manila, and other cities. Dumaguete's proximity to Apo Island a premier diving destination, and other tourist attractions, make Rizal Boulevard an ever changing collage of people and activities.

Pulang Bato

Easter Weekend is a time to go swimming in Dumaguete. Many folks migrate to the beach, others to the swimming pools in nearby resorts. In any event, it is a time for family and renewal. What better way than to take a day off and go swimming?

I like cool temperarures, and Good Friday was blistering hot last week. We had not made reservations at a resort, and did not feel like fighting the crowds at the various beaches, so off to Pulang Bato we went. Where is Pulang Bato you ask? Well it is a little known small series of waterfalls in the moutains on the way to the PNOC Geothermal generating plant in Valencia. Recently upgraded with stone lined natural swimming pools, and a nipa pavilion, it is a small out of the way place you have to just know about.

Pulang Bato is the place of red rocks. The rocks are red stained from all the minerals issuing forth from the shear rock walls on the way up the small paved road to the falls. Many come just to bath in these waters for medicinal reasons. Bamboo tubes protrude from the rocks in certain spots, delivering the healing mineral waters to bathers. Further up the road lies the swimming area and water falls. The entire region is rife with volcanic stem vents and sulfuric mud slides.

To our surprise there were a gathering of students at the main falls, so not wishing to join in drinking with the kids, we ventured up the stone staircase to the upper falls. This tiny pool and personal waterfall was completely deserted. Ading and I enjoyed a refreshing dip and were quickly cooled down to a very comfortable temperature. After an hour or so we ventured back down the road stopping once at one of the mineral water springs so Ading could treat an insect bite. It was a nice quick trip, a good swim, and a pleasant afternoon. By the way they charge 10 Pesos per person to enter.

Trekking to Balanan Lake

A friend of mine has coined a phrase to describe when something goes wrong on a day trip in the Philippines. He and his wife ride a motorcycle and have been caught in the rain on several occasions; they just look at each other and mouth the words "adventure". It is an apt way to describe even an uneventful day trip to a Negros Oriental tourist destination.

When we decided to Trek to Lake Balanan it had rained straight for a week. The day actually started as a bright sunny Philippine morning. As my friend, his wife and I sat sipping coffee, my honey text from the house; Hun, are we going for adventure today? That’s all we needed to get us off our collective rear ends. Rain or shine we were off to Balanan Lake! Never mind that it was already afternoon and it was a 30K journey.

It was a beautiful sunny, hot day as we left Dumaguete on our motorcycles. Just as we passed Zamboanguita, and just as the road began to climb and turn twisty, it began to rain. We traveled on a few kilometers but with the heavy downpour getting worse we took shelter in a roadside bus stop. We were cold and very wet. Adventure? You bet!

After the storm passed, the mountains in the distance re-emerged from their cloudy shroud. Somewhat encouraged by a slight warming in the air temperature, we remounted our motorcycles and continued on to Siaton. Balanan Lake here we come.

Arriving in Siaton, we were nearly dry once again. The area around the village is filled with rice fields, it is a wonderfully verdant scene and represents some of what I consider to be the best of the “real” Philippines. Snowy egrets fly about the fields looking for food. King fishers also are numerous. Oxen and bicycle Pedi cabs clutter the road.

After passing through the village proper, the road takes a few turns. Immediately after crossing a small river, there is a sign on the right side of the road, Lake Balanan 10K. I pulled up and stopped at the sign. I turned to my friends and asked “good for another 10K?” After a somewhat enthusiastic nod we started the long climb to Balanan. It was already late in the afternoon; our rain delay lost us about 45 minutes. Intrepid travelers that we were, we pressed on, hoping still to get back to Dumaguete before dark, foolish thought as it turned out.

The ride up the narrow road to Balanan Lake is not a difficult one. The road, as most rural roads do in the Philippines, alternates from smooth concrete and rough unpaved stretches. The scenery on the climbing ride is some of the most beautiful in the Southern part of Negros Oriental. Fertile river valleys, distant rice plantations dotted with banana and coconut trees predominate. As we climbed further, we saw terraced fields on the steep slopes with a scattering of Nipa huts dotting the mountainside.

Then abruptly, the chain fell off my rear sprocket forcing me to pull over. I had noticed a few days prior that there was a little too much slack in the chain. Typically, I told myself, Ah, I’ll take care of that soon. Well, not soon enough. It was a simple matter to put the chain back on, but I was well aware that once that occurs, the likelihood is it will happen again… It did.

If I had the proper wrench, I could have made a quick field adjustment, but I had no wrench with me except the small tool kit supplied with the bike. Just then a Habal Habal rider came blasting around the corner. Ading, my honey, suddenly screamed out John! She had recognized this guy as an old friend of the family. Now one might ask, what are the odds of that happening on a remote mountain road high up in the Philippine countryside? Quite good actually, since this was her home territory, and in the Philippines extended groups of friends and family seem infinite.

I took it as a good omen; here we were in the middle of a true life adventure. John ran to a conveniently near house and returned with wrench. Within minutes he had removed the rear wheel and begun to repair the chain. A few moments later we had two of his friends there also.

The Habal Habal bikes are an art form in themselves. Looking all the world like something out of Mad Max and the Thunderdome. These reworked modified motorcycles are the modern version of mules of the Philippine mountains. Carrying easily six or even seven passengers, they ride the winding unimproved roads with uncanny ease. The drivers are like diminutive bronco riders, navigating rock strewn roads and steep inclines, with an intuitive sense of both balance and finesse.

The three moto-caballeros quickly repaired the motorcycle on the spot. We busied ourselves looking at the scenery and taking some pictures. As the repair was completed, John did not ask for any money, but Ading gave him 60 pesos for helping us out. This is the honest unassuming nature of many Filipinos, people helping people. It is after all, necessitated in the remote mountain communities.

So with yet another adventure highlight under our belts, we resumed our climb to Balanan Lake.
Balanan Lake has undergone a significant amount of infrastructure improvement since the last visit I made 2 years ago. They have added floating Nipa huts that can be towed across the various sections of water. There is also a new tree house which is available for overnight rental. Surely that would be a fantastic way to experience the beauty of the area. However true to local tastes, it is also equipped with a loud Karaoke system, which somehow seems to diminish the whole experience. Luckily no one was using it while we were there. There are canoe and Kayak rentals as well.

As you approach Balanan Lake on foot, (you have to walk the last 100 meters, or be shuttled), it reminds me of entering Jurassic park. There is a stream flowing across a concrete ford with a footpath made of concrete to look like interlocking stones. A pond on the left and a waterfall on the right add to the atmosphere. There is a gigantic Balite (Banyan) tree on the right side of the stream as you enter. With roots streaming down its side, it looked 15 meters in diameter. Philippine legend associates Balite trees with demons and spirits, dili ingon nato, meaning "things not like us" in Visayan dialect. In any event the scenery was looking primordal and very exotic.

As you walk up the path and approach the lake, it is evident that commercialization has increased, with the addition of a store, reception center, and rental cottages etc. Still by world standards it still is a rather undeveloped remote area, and quite scenic.

Since it was late in the day, we decided to leave after briefly looking around, promising one another that we would return and have a day to spend at Balanan. We hopped back on our motor bikes and left for Dumaguete. It was an uneventful ride back down the mountain and up the highway north… for about one hour. As we approached Dauin I noticed black clouds in the distance. It was getting dark now, and within a few kilometers, the skies unleashed another deluge upon us. Coupled with the darkness, the rain made it almost impossible to see. We crawled back to Dumaguete at a snails pace. Arriving at long last, we dismounted our wet steeds, looked at each other all dripping wet, cold and dirty; no one had to say it. ADVENTURE.