Philippines' Badjao Sea Gypsies

The Badjao, often only known to tourists as street beggars, have much more to their substance and history than that. Honestly I was one who thought the Badjao were only the dark skinned beggars seen on the streets of Dumaguete, probably the disdain for them stems from prejudice and misunderstanding, still, we should understand that there is more to their story, even as we dislike what they have been reduced to in modern times. The historical Badjao are actually nomadic seafaring fishermen who with their whole families in tow, trying to eke out a living by fishing. They have plied the Sulu Sea and surrounding waters for centuries. Originally living on their boats some are born at sea even today. But this is a vanishing lifestyle.

Their centuries-old way of life is threatened by rising costs and shrinking fisheries. For some of the fishermen, their only hope is that their children won't have to follow in their footsteps. The motley caravan of boats, their engines popping in staccato rhythm, head out to sea sounding like a platoon of sputtering lawn mowers. Painted bright red, turquoise and orange, they carry a dozen men wearing baseball caps and T-shirts fashioned as turbans to block the equatorial sun.

Proud and hardworking, they're threatened by soaring costs for fuel and repairs, killer typhoons, pirates, religious rebels and the steady decline of fish poulations. Most Badjao here no longer live on their boats, instead taking up residence in thatch-roofed houses on bamboo stilts. But it seems they can't bear to be away from the water. Their communities extend 100 yards from the beach into the marshy coastal waters, connected by warrens of over-water pathways made of bamboo, wooden planks and overturned canoes.

They still go to sea in bancas, rickety craft with bamboo outrigging lashed together with wire and fishing line. They fashion their own hooks and lures. Small gas-powered motors and cellphones are their only modern conveniences. On the water, times are tough. On land, they are worse. Throughout the Philippines, more than 200,000 Badjao remain marginalized, shunned as uneducated and incorrigible. Non-Badjao children throw coins into the water and laugh as the fishermen scramble from their boats to compete for the handouts. Badjao who abandoned life at sea have ended up as street beggars in big cities such as Manila.

When times are good, they travel four hours out to sea where the stone fish, grouper, whitefish and tuna are bigger and more plentiful. A good catch brings only $20 for the entire group. When times are lean, they secure their gas on credit and take their chances closer to shore. Often they spend two days at sea and return with just two fish, barely enough to feed one person. For years, the Badjao have been known as masters of the seasonal currents of the Sulu and South China seas. Tradition has it that a Badjao fisherman, simply by dipping his hand in the water, can judge a current's direction and strength and the time it will take to reach his destination.

Some belive that the traditional Badjao lifestyle will survive into the 21rst Century, others fear they are doomed to becoming engulphed by a Philippines reluctant to address their needs as an independant and noble people.

Safety in the Philippines

Safety in the Philippines is a topic that often comes up on forums and web sites regarding Philippine life. It is a difficult topic to talk about completely objectively as every person has to decide for him or herself what constitutes reasonable safety. Quite honestly unless you have actually been victimized by crime, safety is a state of mind, a feeling.

A problem can arise when your state of mind is way out of sync with what we might say is "reality". I put that in quotes because Your reality will vary depending on your place of stay, your wealth, and your attitude and lifestyle. If this sounds as if it could be anywhere in the Western world, you are are right. These general conditions tend to influence whether crime is perpetrated on you or not regardless of where you live.

What is different about the Philippines? If you are an average Filipino, nothing. If you are a wealthy Filipino or Chinese Filipino (Chinoy) maybe you are in some jeopardy from criminal elements. If you are a Foreigner from the West unfamiliar with Asian, let alone Philippine society, you have risks associated with your obvious looks and more importantly the assumption that all foreigners are wealthy, plus perhaps your unfamiliarity with the culture.

OK, to the point. the majority of Philippine people especially in the provinces are friendly, generous, and truly good people. Now maybe some urban Filipinos will think I discriminate, please that is not my intention. Cities merely offer a wider cross section of society in larger concentrations than the rural areas. Tourist areas sometimes will have a larger percentage of locals trying to exploit the tourists for extra money, higher prices on goods, and services rendered. This is also not uncommon in other parts of the world.

Crimes against foreigners fall into a few categories.

Poor people do not commit crimes here because they are poor, the vast majority of Filipinos are poor, only a minority are criminals or are likely to steal from you based on their poverty. Most crime here is local on local, family feuds, drunkenness, political murders, petty theft included.

Most robberies and or violent crimes on foreigners are committed by girlfriends, their boyfriends, or maids or other employees. Maybe you gravely offended a neighbor and acted like an arrogant bastard, but more likely they will get back at you not by stealing from you but irritating you by starting a smokey fire when the wind is blowing in your direction. In other words crimes are most often committed by some one you know. Drug related crimes are ever present. This kind of crime is usually random, and targets both locals and foreigners. This is relatively easy to guard against. If you are wealthy and look it with a big house, maids, car etc. you need to be in a gated compound or estate. Locked gates, bars on windows, security, and prudence go a long way to keep you safe. Good advice for anyone is to avoid high risk areas, travel in daylight hours, and keep a watchful eye for unusual behavior near you.

Techniques criminals use include cell phoning from inside a bank to an operative outside when making a large withdrawal. Use a secure bank for your local money in a safe location, and many now prohibit cell phone use inside.

If you are the type of person that stays out late, and looks for fun or female companionship, be aware some girls work in partnership with a Gay pimp. They will offer drugs to you perhaps, well, good luck... One fellow I knew is dead because he was stupid that way.

Drive by robberies do occur in Dumaguete. usually targeting locals but on a few occasions foreigners have been targeted, again because of a connection via a girlfriend or employee. The hooded perpetrators drive motorbikes and will pull a gun on you as you drive. I have one friend who has a hole in his gas tank to prove it. He was traveling listen carefully... late at night, alone back to Valencia from Dumaguete. In his case they were just looking for foreigners going home late at night.

What about all those terrorist groups you here about on the various CIA, U.S. Embassy web sites? Well unless you are in specific areas in Mindanao, or maybe a few other hot spots of Abu Sayef activity you have little to fear from Muslim terrorist groups. If they kidnap people it is more likely to be a rich Chinoy whom they know will pay a ransom and not call the authorities. The few times they have kidnapped Western foreign nationals, of course it hits the world press.

The New Peoples Army or NPA, seldom if ever target foreigners. They simply in my opinion want no centralized government telling them what to do, and spend most of their time sparing with local government troops, again rarely ever will a foreigner witness any of this. Dumaguete is surrounded by active NPA. Seldom will any foreigner be aware of this, nor should it be a concern. Let's just say the NPA has a stake in keeping Dumaguete safe for Foreigners. I have met no doubt many so called NPA, I don't ask them, they don't say. Some are the local Barangay chiefs.

One thing you should be aware of, political alliances are constantly changing and constitute relationships between dissident groups, police, local government, and criminal elements. Sometimes its difficult to know who you are talking to, even when you think you know. The best advice I can give to anyone making their home in the Philippines is be friendly to everyone but choose friends carefully, don't discuss politics with locals unless yo know them well, and make good friends with your immediate neighbors, especially if you live in a non secure area (Good advice in any area really). Living in the Philippines is about building alliances, either family or community or both.

I have never lived in a gated community, I have been fortunate, made good local friends, and even though I was victimized in a random hold up once in my four year stay, still choose to live in local Filipino neighborhoods. But I carry a cheap cell phone, never carry large amounts of cash, and keep a low profile.

Living in the Philippines is a great opportunity to mesh with another culture if you so choose. You will bring away from your experience pretty much what you bring to it. Knowing a few guidelines, Living and getting along in the Philippines is not so different here as anywhere else.

A note about police. Here the police are not here to protect you or solve crimes. Once you are aware of that then you can choose for yourself how you want to deal with them. Having a friend as a police officer can be advantageous, but be careful not to get in a position where you owe him something. If you have family involved in local politics or the police better yet.

I have some good friends who don't agree, they revel in having many high ranking local politicians and military brass in their circle. I believe this can be risky, especially if you expect them to act like you in all situations. Do so knowing what you are dealing with, a different culture.

Summer In Dumaguete

Summer in Dumaguete means going to the beach, driving or riding into the mountains to find a remote water fall or grotto, or simply relaxing at a cafe or music venue on a balmy summer evening. Being a college town, the students set the tone, (those who do not go back to their province).

Silliman beach is a favorite free beach popular among the locals, It is no frills, but offers a taste of the local life. From there you can move north along the coast or south and find a variety of resorts from modest to garandiose. North of Sibulan there is Sea Forest resort. Going south there are many resorts to chose from beach to pool resorts, to scuba diving resorts.
Mountain lovers will love to explore Forest Camp resort, it has water, hiking trails, ATV rentals, and guided mountain trekking.

Evenings will find many students at Garahe, or any other numerous acoustic music venues. Special musical events are numerous often sponsored by San Miguel Breweries. These feature national recording artists, and some excellent bands visit Dumaguete on these occasions.

What ever your pleasure Dumaguete offers the best of summer at a lesurly pace. A great combination of popular culture and natural splendor is available.

Dumaguete to Cebu City by Motorcycle

I often go to Cebu City for various reasons. Sometimes a visa run, other times shopping or other business. This time tired of riding ferries or Ceres Liners, I decided to ride my motorcycle. I figured I could shave at least a half hour from the trip if I got lucky with the ferry connection to Bato from Tampi.

I actually left from Siaton not Dumaguete, so my trip was lengthened by 40 minutes. I made it from Siaton to Tampi in just over one hour, a rather fast time as it was Sunday and the traffic was light. As I approached the dock at Tampi the barge was loaded and just about to leave, the dockmen waived me on and I scooted onto the ship as they raised the ramp. Timing is everything, and in this case I was very lucky.

Disembarking at Bato after a thirty minute ride on the ferry, I sorted out my things and took off for Cebu City. On a Sunday, as I mentioned before, the traffic is very light making the first two thirds of the trip relaxing and very enjoyable. The road winds around through Oslob, Argao, and Dalaguete. A motorcyclist's dream of switchbacks, chicanes, and sweeping turns are an adventure and joy to ride. Just be very careful of the Ceres liners that also ply this road in abundance.

The coastal road has a decidedly Mediterranean feel (except for the flora), and the resorts and large homes carved into the seaside cliffs add to the ambiance. It is a beautiful ride, and very different from riding on the bus.

After getting to Car Car, the traffic increases exponentially. Not as relaxing, driving speed is still about 60-80 KPH, but you are surrounded by other motorists. A careful eye and dilligence is required. The fun goes out of the trip by the time you reach the outskirts of Cebu, but it is not so bad that anyone could not handle it.

In the end, my trip from Bato to Mactan Island Island took under three hours. I did in fact shave off a 1/2 hour to the south terminal where the bus normally would stop. A nice ride on a Sunday mid morning, and even on my 150cc underpowered steed, very doable.

Visiting Siaton

Since family ties are so important here in the Philippines, we have occasion to visit Siaton somewhat frequently. Siaton is a very small town at the tip of Oriental Negros. Traveling south from Dumaguete, it is about a hours drive if you go slowly. If you are a dare devil motorcycle rider(I am not) the trip can be done in 40 minutes.

The first thing that strikes you about Siaton are the bountiful and verdant rice plantations as you enter town. Fed and irrigated by two rivers, Siaton is an agricultural center in the region. In that way Siaton is more or less the main market town for Southern Negros Oriental. Much of it's bounty heads north to Dumaguete for distribution there. Truckloads of fish, rice, and produce find there way north to the larger markets.

Siaton is a quiet villiage, with only a few modern bussinesses. There is a wet market, town square, and a satellite campus of NORSU University. A sleepy town, with mostly bicycle pedicabs, Siaton has a quite charm of its' own. If you are an expat you will be looked at with curiousity although nearby Tambobo Bay supplies a limited flow of forein visitors to town. English is no as freely spoken as in Dumaguete, but as this is still largely a province town, that is not surprising.

The beaches of Siaton are expansive and consist mostly of brown sand, normally almost deserted as far as recreational use is concerned. You will find mostly native houses and fishing boats along the shore line. I had the occasion to spend a day at the families beach cabana a few days ago. the pictures show the way the Philippines was everywhere only a few years ago. It was a pleasant change fom the crowded beaches surrounding Dumaguete. Sitting there having a beer and eating barbecue, it was not hard for me to imagine being in the Philippines of 100 years ago.

Siaton, a worthwhile stop if you are traveling to Lake Balanan just south of town.

Staying Safe in Dumaguete

People often ask, "How safe is Dumaguete for foreigners?" This of course is a somewhat loaded question. To be safe, secure in ones home, or safe to act as one might in their own country. Safety is a state of mind regardless of where you are.
Of course certain realities exist and will intervene no matter where you live. Dumaguete is a growing small provincial capital. With growth comes an influx of money to the area. And if you think just a little, criminals will be attracted to the riches and perceived wealth. Crime is extant in Dumaguete. If your main concern is your personal safety, there are ways to easily ensure a relatively safe and secure stay or residence here. It is no different than anywhere else.

The difference in Dumaguete, is that if you are an expat, you will become a target for those few criminal elements who percieve "foreigners" as all being rich. Taking precautions when traveling at night, securing your residence, and not letting your guard down, will all serve you well to a safe experience here.

The police here are trying to do their job, but are strained by budget, and manpower problems. In addition, there investigative techniques are quite different than those in western countries. Hence your best bet is to prevent a crime against your person, rather than rely upon the police.

During daytime hours ordinary precautions with regards to carrying bags, wearing expensive jewelry, and handling money are all that is needed. Use a secure ATM. Change your habits occasionally to avoid being stalked.

A greater danger comes after dark. Most crimes are committed under the cover of darkness. Avoid deserted streets, stay in the populated areas that are well lit. Watch that you are not being followed, especially if you are on a motor bike. Criminals often ride tandem on motorbikes cruising for victims. The back rider will carry a gun and point it at you to pull over.

There are certain areas of the city that are listed as higher risk than others. the area north of the Boulevard in Looc by the waterfront, and south of the boulevard in Tinago and Canday-ong are noted drug dealing zones and are frequented by undesirable elements. Again daytime hours present little risk anywhere in town, but be cautious at night.

Is Dumaguete Safe? Ultimately I believe it is as safe if not safer than some other areas of the Philippines, but one must always be aware, and diligent.

Tokay Gecko

When you come to the Philippines even for a short visit you are likely to encounter the night time call of the Tokay Gecko. A croaking "Tukawh Tukawh, sounding like a cross between a frog and a wild turkey. It was several weeks after first hearing this haunting call that I actually saw on of these common lizards.

They are strikingly pretty with grayish bodies with bright red spots and bulging eyes. They grow to 30cm in length and have a reputation for being very aggressive. Many here consider them good luck and advise not to touch them or harm them. There is another very practical reason for staying a good distance from these Tokay Geckos. they have the reputation of being the pit bull of lizards. Unlike many reptiles they are aggressive and will often jump or bite someone attempting to handle them. They are not poisonous, but once they clamp on to your hand or finger you might wait one hour for it to let go. If you try to pry it off it just clamps down. supposedly dunking the attached Tokay in a pail of water will cause it to release it's grip.

Widely spread all over Asia they are one of the most common Geckos. The Latin name is Gekko Gecko, and locally they are called the Tukaw Gecko. They are normally nocturnal arboreal dwellers that eat almost anything. Their life span is 7-10 years. Being carnivores they hunt insects and small mice. Tokay Geckos have adapted well to city life, and often dwell in houses climbing the walls at night in search of food.

I can attest to this as we have a mating pair living under our entrance stairs. In fact last month they hatched babies and we saw at least two tiny geckos crawling around the stair case under the watchful eye of mother or father. Apparently they mate for life as we have had the same pair in residence for over a year, and they also seem to be protective parents. Oddly, or perhaps luckily, these particular Tokay Geckos seem to be mute. I have nor once heard either one croak, perhaps they are being polite or simply go outside to make noise.

A common sight in the country side, and more likely a common sound at night, the Tokay Gecko is an integral part of life in the Philippines

Lakbay Aral

Lakbay Aral, means “study tour”, and in that context I had the pleasure to meet Hannah Meditar, a member of the government agency that concerns itself with waste treatment and environmental issues. Working out of South Cotabato (region 12), she was a participant on a fact finding mission to Several Negros communities. Lakbay aral is organized and sponsored by Environmental Governance 2 a USAID project in which Mr. Ferdinand Esguerra is the regional coordinator of South and Central Mindanao.

The first group had a total of 31 participants.

Provincial Technical Working Group (PTWG):
1. Cotabato Province - 6 participants - 1 Provincial Planning and Development Office (PPDO) and 5 active PTWG members)

2. South Cotabato - 4 participants Provincial Environmental Management Officer (PEMO) Ramon B. Ponce de Leon and active PTWG members.

Municipal LGUs
1. Magpet - 6 participants: MENRO, 5 active TWG members
2. Pres. Roxas - 6 participants MENRO, 5 active TWG members
3. Kabacan - 6 participants Hon. Mayor George Tan, 5 active TWG members

Ecogov
2 participants

DENR Environmental Management Bureau (EMB)
1 participant

Hannah’s office is DENR-Environmental Management Bureau (EMB) based in Koronadal City , Region 12. Its vision is “a nation empowered to protect our finite natural resources, attuned to the pursuit of sustainable development, for a clean and healthy environment that enhances the Filipino quality of life for present and future generations”. Its mission is “to restore, protect and enhance environmental quality towards good public health, environmental integrity and economic viability”. Locally, EMB visions a “Pollution-free Region XII” and to realize its mission “to establish and carry out the vision, to ensure public health, environmental protection and safety and to adhere excellent practice of good governance”.

Their mission in Negros was to examine some newer facilities for waste water treatment and solid waste disposal. The idea was to gather information and see if some ideas could be taken back and modeled by other communities in Region 12.












Dumaguete was one of the communities examined both for waste water treatment from the public market, and its solid waste management program. In addition the group surveyed local recycling efforts, and visited local organizations involved with making products from various recycled materials. There are a variety of programs that many people might not be aware of. For example some barangays and local universities are recycling a wide array of materials including

· demonetized currency
· plastic bottles and bags
· newspaper
· vermiculture composting projects
· glass


The Vermiculture composting facility is located in Barangay Calindagan. They are using biodegradable waste to manufacture compost for gardening. St. Pauls University is involved in the Plastics recycling, making shopping bags and rope from plastic bottles among other products.
Here is a picture of the Mayor of the Municipality of Kabacan in North Cotabato, Hon. George B. Tan examining products made from recycled paper.

What I learned from talking to Hannah was that there are indeed many people in the Philippines who are concerned about the environment and pollution, both in the government and private sectors. While these initially may be small efforts, every effort contributes to a better environment. What I was not aware of was the depth of local interest in researching the conversion and use of recycled products.

Amor Propio

Article 2 in a series, See Label “Philippine culture” at right

Amor Propio
Garbo(Visayan)

As it is almost impossible to talk about any one of these traits or societal behaviors individually with out invoking the others, this section about Amor propio will include several other terms. Bear with me, each will have its own article but will be briefly defined this time.

Filipinos are known for being sensitive to insults, and criticisms, whether constructive or not. Insinuating racial superiority or exhibiting an arrogant nature can easily offend a Filipino. Amor propio can be looked at as self-esteem or pride. To make sure this is not damaged, the Filipino is expected to be sensitive about the feelings of others. Shame and embarrassment, called hiya, should not be inflicted on others. Often the sudden and intense violence in Filipino relations is caused by "damaged" amor propio.

Ego is another way of looking at amor propio. But juxtaposed to the European individualistic sense of ego and self, the Filipino protects not only his Amor Propio, but is expected to protect everyone else’s as well. In fact the emphasis is on not offending others. This act in itself boosts one’s own Amor propio.

Amor propio, connects the traits pakikisama, hiya, and utang na loob (or debt of honor). All of these affect his amor propio. If you have helped a Filipino in a way that cannot be repaid materially, he will constantly thank you for the favor done. The pride to return the good deeds he received nurtures his amor propio, which sometimes leads to showing off especially in the presence of peers and subordinates. amor propio propels the Filipino to be overly sensitive.

If you would list Amor proprio at the top, the other social behaviors and attitudes serve to maintain one sense of self and esteem in the community. As we begin to decode the inter connectedness of these social constructs, the complex and seemingly mysterious Filipino ways can be slowly understood.

Another way of looking at Amor Propio is to compare it to “Face” in other Asian cultures. Saving Face is a term most expats can relate to. If one loses Face, it brings shame and may cause a violent reaction. The difference is In Japanese society, self destructive behavior is often manifested instead. Suicide is still seen occasionally as a reaction to loss of face or the onset of shame in Japan. Amor propio is similar but not exactly like saving face (or gaining Amor Propio). There is the inner self in these other cultures that represents a Taoist influence or dualism, in other words the opposite of “Face”.

As it can be seen, almost all of these cultural value systems centers on the welfare of the larger group, whether it be family, clan, or community. Historically one might envision a time when practical necessity demanded all social interactions preserve the well being of the collective society.

Special Needs Children In The Philippines

We live in a family compound in Dumaguete. Most everyone is somehow related except for Ading and I and a few other families. This social structure is key to understanding how people relate to one another. Families tend to live in close proximity. In the event that some move from rural areas to the city, there seems always to be some relatives nearby or clusters of family. The point being that family is all improtant down to the third and fourth cousins. and believe me, Filipinos keep track somehow.

Our neighors have a Downs Syndrome child at home. The regard for special needs children in the Philippines is historically completely opposite to what has been seen in Western Cultures. Admittedly attitudes have changed in the West, and what was once seen as a curse is seen more as a challenge to maintain some degree of normalcy and inclusion in society.

Here in the Philippines, a special needs child is considered good luck, and a blessing. When I first met Maris, it was a unique experience for me. We had entered their home to say hello and were chatting away when Maris entered the room. Imediately her mother said "this is Maris our blessing", she is our "special child". Maris at once came over and gave us a big hug. She lives a protected life and is held in the highest regard among her family. Every day they take her to school, and recently hosted her debut for her 18th birthday party. They feel exceptional children possess a good spirit and closeness to god. Certainly the gentle innocent nature of the Downs child fosters this impression.

To the best of their ability have created a garden of Eden on their small property. Maris can play with her cat and enjoy a protected existence surrounded by her loving family.

Coming from a society that has treated these conditions as a deficit and a burden to the family, it was another learning experience for me. It was another example of the strength of family and regard for children in the Philippines. Despite her obvious limitations Maris is highly regarded for her gift as a loving child and her closeness to god.

Pakikisama

Article 1 in a series, See Label “Philippine culture” at right

Although many Expats feel comfortable talking and relating to Filipinos on a casual basis, eventually most will suffer culture shock due to fundemental differences in the way people think here. To increase ones understanding, it is necessary, ( if you want to fit in) to learn the foundations of the Philippine value system: Pakikisama, Hiya , Amor propio, and Utang na loob and the importance of the extended family.

This first piece will be on the topic of Pakikisama. In future articles I hope to discuss many other traditions, ways of thinking and relating to others unique to Asian cultures in general and specifically the Philippines.

In Japan it is called “Uchi-Soto” or similarly, "Nemawashi", a process of relating to others by consensus building. It is a non confrontational way of doing life, business, and interpersonal group relationships. In the Philippines Pakikisama is the ability of a person to get along with others to maintain good and harmonious relationships. It implies camaraderie and togetherness in a group and the cause of one’s being socially accepted. Pakikisama requires someone yielding to group opinion, pressuring him to do what he can for the advancement of his group, sacrificing individual welfare for the general welfare. Consensus takes precedent over individual needs or opinion.

Pakikisama implies smooth social interaction. Relationships no matter with whom and on what level should be without open conflict. To keep pakikisama, Filipinos in general will avoid verbal confrontations, rude words or gestures, the direct decline of a request, and will try to act polity and calmly although perhaps they are not inside. You will seldom hear no to a request or question. To an Expat this will be confusing and sometimes lead one to think Filipinos are insincere or otherwise misleading with their answers. It is not so. Maybe is a standard reply which often means no, or sometimes yes, and other times maybe. If you are now totally confused, it is understandable. It takes exposure and time to understand the difference.

Often critical matters are negotiated through third parties to avoid direct conflict. Sometimes a quarrel between two individuals escalates to an unsolvable row between two clans or families. The only way to resolve the conflict peaceably (very desirable), is to go to the local Barangay captain and use him as a mediator. The skillful Barangay chief will explain to both parties in private why he is doing them a favor by entertaining their side of the argument. In the end all go home satisfied that they have been heard and perhaps nothing was gained or lost in the process. Everyone maintained Amor Propio, or saves face.

Pakikisama is most important at work places and is considered as the key factor getting a job best done. The Western way of arguing, disagreeing and being very straightforward or frank, is considered by many Filipinos as a breach of etiquette.

Pakikisama has many manifestations in Philippine society, one of which is extending support or offering help to neighbors who are in need. This comes from the still relevant necessity to bind together to survive as a group. When food is scarce and rice is expensive, all eat, for the good of the group. Pakikisama reflects the bayanihan spirit, which involves cooperation among fellow men to come up with a certain idea or accomplish a certain task. While bayanihan refers to a community-support action, pakikisama has a more individualized sense.

I will talk more about these and other cultural traits in future writings. As you can already surmise all these ways of thinking and behaving are inter-related.

Sineguelas, Food of the Gods

The heat of summer is nearing its peak and the leafy greens and water dependent vegetables that were so abundant and robust just weeks ago are now disappearing from the markets. However, a few fruits are ripening now in an annual effort to propagate themselves and seed the countryside before the rainy season.


Sineguelas are one of those “childhood memory fruits” in the Philippines. Sineguelas (Spondias purpurea) or Spanish Plum in English, is a native to Mexico and the western coast of Central and South America. Brought over by the Spaniards, it has taken very well to the Philippine archipelago and thrives here.

The fruit are approximately 1 to 1.5 inches in length and start off purplish or maroon green and ripen to a yellow or dark red state. The skin is taut and shiny and the flesh firm when unripe and slightly astringent (many of my relatives prefer them green hard eaten with salt) When they are ripe Sineguelas are more like the plum I am familiar with, sweet, juicy, with a large pit.

They are in season from April to June or so but they seem to peak in May. In my family, they are considered like manna, food from the gods. There is an almost sacramental aura about them in our household and neighborhood. My wife assures me the best Sineguelas are grown in Siaton, and that they grow nowhere else quite as well as at home. I asked why she thought so. She remarked that while they will grow anywhere in the Philippines the limestone (coral) bluffs along the sea are ideal growing conditions for larger and more prolific fruit production. This leads me to surmise they like well drained neutral acidic soils.

In any event, we have made no less than three trips to Siaton from Dumaguete to pick bushels of these little fruits. Ading’s family has a large plantation of Sineguelas on their large property over looking the sea. They bring them back and prefer to eat them when they are green hard and sour. Dipped in sea salt and eaten until there are no more to eat. The almost mystical attraction to these fruits is baffling to me, but then they are not part of my growing up.

When friends come to visit us, they are given without asking a large bag of Sineguelas to take home. It is like that, sharing something of great value which seems to make the eating of them all the more precious.


The season is just about over now, peaking this month in Siaton, we will have to wait another year to again go sineguelas crazy and eat until sickened by these strange little gems.

Motorbike Drag Racing-Dumaguete

I am always interested in manifestations of popular culture where ever I travel. It is particularly interesting for me to see current trends in motor sports transfered to other cultures; adapted and translated to the local tastes and in this case budget.

Motorbikes, step throughs, scooters; whatever you call them, they all descend from the venerable Honda 50 Cub. This classic first of its kind motor bike was voted best all time motorcycle by the Discovery Channel. An amazing fact since it was competing with Harley's, Triumphs, Matchless, and other very powerful classic machines. The Cub won because of its impact on popular culture, its durability (at the shows end they dropped one from a 5 story building and drove it away), and it's world wide distribution.

Today in Asia, and specifically the Philippines, there are many descendants of this classic design. Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki all make updated 100 and 125cc versions whick resemble futuristic cafe racers on a miniature scale.
This is not wasted on the after market crowd. There is not so much disposable income in the Philippines, so the kids customize there $1000 dollar motorbikes instead of Toyota Celicas. They spend at least that much money again replacing parts for both appearance and performance sake.

What you see is anodized accessories, custom seat covers, lowered frames, ultra thin tires and alloy or cast aluminum rims. On the performance side they add, unneccessary (but cool looking) oil coolers, performance exhaust systems, and tweaked engines. Some street racers have hidden neon lighting under the fenders and custom headlighting. Basically everything available to hot rodders for their cars is utilized on these miniscule two wheeled bikes.

Some do it for style, while others go for performance. Drag racing is a popular weekend activity here, while illegal on public roads, it happens with regularity. If you are in the know, word gets out where the weekly races happen. Commonly refered to as "underbones" these racing bikes are stripped of every bit of plastic coach work, seats removed, all lights taken off, all in a legitimate effort to decrease the weight. When doing any performance mod, decreasing the weight is the single most effective means of increasing performance.

Some of the bikes look like stripped down Mad Max creations, while others really are an artistic expression of personal style. I get to see quite a few of these as students come by our place often. The coolest one I have seen so far is a 1970's vintage Honda Dream 70cc bike. Stripped like an underbones style it is tastfully painted with chromed accessories. The rear fender is bobbed and it just looks sharp.

Here is a video slide show from You Tube that highligts a gathering in Dumaguete. I don't take credit for the hip hop/Alternative soundtrack, turn it off if it becomes too much, it does accuratly relect the social scene surounding the bike crowd.





This next takes place in Tanjay just north of Dumaguete. Check out the people in the road, "and no one got hurt"




This last one I included just because this guy gets the prize for Wheelie King.

Foreigner in the morning

Woke up this morning about 7:30, it was already warm, the heat of the last few days was building, and even the reciprocating ceiling fan on high did little to quell the heat. I had to use the CR, normally a simple effort get out of bed and walk down the hall open the door and pee. Today Ading anticipated my move, decided she needed to go worse than I, and beat it to the CR ahead of me. OK I thought, I’ll just turn on CNN for a minute to divert my attention from my full bladder long enough for her to vacate the CR. I looked for my glasses put them on, then ambled out to the living room and commenced to turn on the TV. It was so hot; I went over to the room fan to turn it on. It was then that I was reminded of my almost daily mistake; I forgot to inspect my glasses before donning them.

There are these pesky microscopic ants that seem to take delight in crawling on my frames at night, my first clue to my negligence is this movement in my peripheral vision. “What the heck is that” I think, and try sleepily to swat the air before remembering that these guys are running the NASCAR circuit around my glasses frames. Before I get the glasses off to shake the little buggers off, one has escaped into my scalp. Here we go... scratch, itch, scratch, until I am reasonably sure the ant is no longer there. OK, now to turn the fan on.

In the meantime while I was distracted, Ading’s daughter has come from the store where she had a sleep over with her student friends. Ading was out of the CR, and without warning or notice Maean was in to take a shower before darting off to school.

Still had to pee…

I sat and tried to watch a little TV. Now my head itched even though I was reasonably sure there were no more ants on my head, or in my ears for that matter. Maean was out soon enough, and now it was my turn. Ahhh… relief at last. Finished, with a nice cool shower, shave, and now for my ritual first cup of coffee. Got the cup brewing, no sugar. Ading called Carl!. Carl her son was in Siaton overnight, we laughed at her attempt to get the absent Carl to fetch some sugar for us at the store. Coffee without sugar OK no big deal.

As I sat down to sip my bitter brew, both of us were lazy to walk to the store for more sugar. Just then some shouted from outside, It is the world without walls here in the Philippines it’s Hiyo! from down the alley. “Newton is here”. Newton of motorcycle painting fame was waiting for me at the store. Still in my briefs, I set down the cup of coffee, and dressed quickly, then walked to the store.

Newton was dressed in his normal “Newton” attire complete with his trademark fashion glasses. He was repairing something for a friend of his and wanted to know if I had any Cyanoacrylate adhesive. Not surprisingly, I had some in the fridge, hording it as it is scarce in Dumaguete. Newton had already canvassed JT Marketing, but as is typical they don’t have regular stock. Guessing I might have some he stopped by on his way home. We did the deal, and then off he went. Now ten o’clock, still not having finished my coffee, I sat down and got out my computer to start my day. And a wonderful day it was here in Dumaguete surrounded by friends and people I love,

even if they beat me to the CR…

Vulcate!

When you drive around Dumaguete you will be sure to notice frequent roadside signs with a hand painted Vulcate. Often painted on an old tire propped up at the roads edge, these are the typical tire repair shops of the Philippines.

Some are so small and humble you won’t see them as you speed by. But I guarantee if you have a flat tire on your motorcycle in Dumaguete, you will be wishing you memorized every one in town. With typical Filipino understatement and frugality, the vulcanizing shops have no modern tire repair equipment. One tire iron, and a homemade vulcanizing press, hand pump, and some old inner tubes are often the only equipment. The “press” is always made of found or recycled objects. I have seen them made from old engine pistons, bits of steel plate and old steering wheels. The designs are always similar with a container for a flammable liquid which is used to “vulcanize” the patch as it is being pressed.

When you pull up to one of these places with a flat tire, don’t expect them to remove the wheel from your bike. No they just unseat the tire and ease out the tube from within. Again, it is an exercise in doing as little work as possible with as few tools as necessary.

Once the tube is extracted in this way, they pump in some air and look for the leak. Then moving the mountain to Mohamed, the press is dragged to the tire where they work their magic. While the tube is being pressed or perhaps beforehand, the operator will examine the tire for an intruding object. After about twenty minutes the process is done and the tire insertion procedure is reversed, and off you go for 20 pesos or so.

What you will notice in time is that some of these shops are open all night in Dumaguete City. They service not only individual motorbikes but the 2000 plus tricycle pedicabs plying the streets of Dumaguete. I have been lucky to be near an all night shop in the two instances that a flat occurred after darkness. The shops are everywhere and numerous. This tells you two things about the Philippines, one the roads are rough, and two, Filipinos ride around on marginal tires, patching them until they nearly disintegrate.

My friend Nelson owns one such shop near our house. He can usually be found sitting at his place either playing his guitar, or playing with his pet Reticulated Boa Constrictor. He rescued the snake from a city street when it was a baby. An engaging fellow, he has an easy smile and an friendly manner about him. I always go to him if I need air in my tires or if I happen to notice a tire going flat with in range of his place. If I pull up for a little air, he tries to wave me off for no charge; I don’t let him, and always give him something for turning on his compressor. Nelson is one shop that has an electric air compressor to make his operation easier for him.

Over the months I have lived in the present location, Nelson has indeed become a friend. He comes to our karaoke and buys one beer and maybe sings two or three songs. He appreciates our business, and when he can afford, will patronize ours. Some times he comes with his snake in his pocket and lets the college students who frequent our place hold it or snap cell phone photos. It is a good time, and while to the uninitiated it may seem bizarre it isn’t here, and we have grown accustomed to his pet.

The vulcanizing shops are just one of the things unique tothe Philippines, and in addition to fixing your flat you just might find a friend. That in the end is what it is all about isn't it?

Philippine Ergonomics (human scale)

When I first landed in the Philippines, my first experience with not quite fitting was walking down the sidewalk in Cebu City. There are many small stores with awnings and canopies. These often are no more than 5’ off the ground. If you are a 6’ tourist you have to watch your head, often these overhangs are made of sheet metal with sharp edges. It can be almost guaranteed, you will bang your head a few times before getting wise to the Lilliputian scale of the Philippines. Good advice is to wear a hat which will soften the first few blows to the forehead.

Filipinos have an average height of 5’ for women and 5’4” for men. In the provincial towns like Dumaguete, almost everything is influenced by this fact. When you hire a tricycle pedicab, the first thing you will realize is that there is not enough head room to sit straight, nor enough room for your legs. It is very much like getting on a kiddy ride at a carnival with your small children. Even the Ceres liners, which are large commercial busses, are cramped for the tall foreigner. The seats are close together with very little leg room for a tourist. Seats are three abreast on one side and two on the other. That’s one more person than on a western style bus. It’s a very good idea to get the aisle seat if you want to stretch your legs from time to time.

In some of the local Dumaguete malls even the stairs are downsized. It takes a little getting used to when you’re used to stepping on stairs with a larger spacing. The other contributing factor is that there is no standardization here. Handle heights, door openings, and stair spacing vary from building to building. The upshot is that one must always pay attention to the little things that are taken for granted in the west.

Another related phenomenon in Dumaguete is the sidewalks are not consistent in width or height. Often there are as much as a 12” drop off as you walk down the street! The widths can vary from 3’ to 1’, often with two levels side by side, very strange and haphazard for one used to consistency. There is no liability here, if you get hurt, it is your fault for not looking. No lawyers ready to take your case, you need to be responsible for your own safety.

The land of Liliput does indeed exist, while not as disparate an example as in the Jonathan Swift novel, there is a real difference in the overall scale of things in Dumaguete. Watch your head!