Dumaguete McDonalds

Some argue Dumaguete has changed for the worse with the recent arrival of a McDonalds on Legaspi Street. Others laud the arrival as a sign of progress to this provincial town. Whether you are a fan of McDonalds or not, this article will open your eyes to the differences between McDonalds east and west.

This is an excerpt of a review I did on a book about McDonalds establishing fast food restaurants in Asia circa 1998. While it is not specifically about the Philippines, when you visit the Dumaguete McDonalds, you will immediately observe many of the behaviors outlined in the article.

There is more to the fast food business than food. For example many Asians patronize McDonalds for the ambiance and the “American experience” rather than the food, which is considered secondary. Typified by Japan’s example, many Asians adopt selective American traits as desirable and reject others. They often love the American “style” but reject the restaurant behavior required to make the McDonalds concept work (from a profit standpoint). An example is the Asian tendency to linger and enjoy the air-conditioned ambiance, when to be profitable, McDonalds relies on rapid turnover of customers. Another is the widespread Asian trait to hold a burger with the paper wrapper around the burger bun.

The clever and sometimes humorous solutions required by restaurant owners are interesting. One such case might be called the napkin wars. Chinese McDonalds customers when presented with self-bussing and self-service would simply steal all the napkins from the dispensers if they were left unattended. In Singapore the restaurant owners actually catered to the hordes of teen age customers descending on McDonalds after school. They recognized that these were the future adult customers as well as teenage consumers with disposable income. Additionally, Asian patrons often would not queue up in lines to order but would mob the counter and fight for service. Retraining was necessary to establish order.

McDonalds goes into great depth analyzing both the behavior and expectations of the various cultures, and then adapts in order to ensure economic viability and acceptance. Treading a fine line between product uniformity and catering to local tastes, McDonalds goes to great lengths in order to ensure success. In the Philippines observe the burger McDoo, and chicken and rice dishes.

Is McDonalds a cultural imperialist as some claim, or a valuable partner in transnational business? McDonalds encourages co ownership of the Asian franchises. Local businessmen wholly own several Asian concerns. However, in Korea this tactic was employed out of necessity in order to penetrate the less than enthusiastic Korean market. In Korea and to a lesser extent elsewhere in Asia, eating is a political act, not simply a sustenance or social act. McDonalds was forced to alter the perceptions of Koreans and other Asians to accept the fact that bread and hamburgers were a politically correct food in lieu of native rice.

McDonalds not only researched local tastes, but also did extensive market research to determine the best way to advertise their product in Asian countries. One example was the way they determined that television advertising in China would be of little value because of the viewing habits of the Chinese. There is no advertising during a TV program in China, advertising only occurs between programs. Chinese viewers generally switch channels between shows rendering TV ads ineffective.

McDonalds encountered difficulty conveying to the Asian consumer that hamburgers were more than a snack. This was one of the most difficult tasks they faced in all the Asian markets. Hong Kong was the exception, as Hong Kong had a long history of cross-cultural influences. Another issue facing American style fast food businesses was the value meal concept. Asian languages had no word for value and McDonalds was forced to come up with another way of describing combination meals. The solution was using the term “sets” which approximated the meaning in Japanese and Chinese.

If for no other reason, McDonalds must be admired for their business savvy in bringing American fast food to Asia while at the same time addressing Asian tastes and social custom.

For those interested in reading the book, which I highly recommend, here are the particulars.
Golden Arches East. Watson, James L. (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1997. Pp. xi, 200.

http://www.amazon.com/Golden-Arches-East-McDonalds-Asia/dp/0804732078

Eating fresh in the Philippines

As an expat or long term tourist in the Philippines, one has the opportunity to sample some of the unique and delicious foods here. Certainly visitors can opt to be the tourist who eats at expensive western style restaurants and fast food outlets. However, it would be a missed opportunity not to eat some of the outstanding local food. If you are here for an extended visit or plan to settle, learning the local food culture will be to your advantage.

My focus here will be on food available in the provinces. What can you expect to find in the local farmers markets, groceries, and small Filipino restaurants?

In general Filipinos love sweet foods and fatty meat. However, there are a broad range of seasonings used in native cooking and the flavors are quite diverse. Ginger, garlic, and cili (hot peppers) are common ingredients. The unfortunate side effect from western influence is the thousands of candies available at every Sari Sari store. The diet common 400 years ago of fish, rice, native chicken and the occasional pig is now expanded to include soft drinks, beer, candy, and cookies with sweet filling.

It is easy to eat healthy here with not as much discipline as required in the west if you shop for local produce and local meats. Fresh dairy products are not readily available in the provinces as dairy cows are few, and goats which are prevalent, are raised for meat only. So without cheese, milk, and butter, cholesterol and fat from these sources is easily avoided. The supermarkets in the larger cities offer a broad range of dairy products, so if you desire those items you may indeed buy them.

You will never see fresh milk in the grocery stores here. There is what they call “ultra pasteurized” boxed milk imported from Australia, but it is an overly sweet and watery liquid. Milk to the average Filipino is powdered milk. Basically it is formula made in various concoctions targeting infants, pre-teens, teens young adults, and the elderly.

When visiting the local weekly produce market, there are many healthy fresh vegetables to choose from, both familiar and unfamiliar. Eggplant, garlic, red onions, tomatoes, potatoes, green beans, carrots, cabbages, lettuce, cucumbers, and peppers are all available. In addition there will be coconuts, local varieties of bananas, Syote, bittergoat, pineapple, guava, papaya, lancones, mangos, and many varieties of strange root crops and squash like veggies. There are many local native fruits available. Trying to describe them all would take another article. Suffice to say, experiment and you will quickly find the ones that suit your personal tastes.

Buying fresh meat is something that has to be done while exercising caution. There is little refrigeration in the rural parts of the Philippines, and the local supermarkets sometimes turn off the freezers at night to save electricity! There is no concept of food spoilage here in the provinces. Once cooked, food is considered safe, even if left out in 90 degree heat all day. That said, after two years, I have only had bad reactions to food a few times, never serious or lasting more than a day or two. I use common sense and simply refuse politely to eat what looks unsafe to me. “busog” means I’m full.

Key to buying fresh meat is get it within hours after the animal is killed, or caught, if fish.
The Public market in Dumaguete has a meat market within its confines. Get there before eight AM and you will be assured fresh killed pork. There are local reliable supermarkets, but the same axiom holds true .There are some stores that offer frozen meats of good quality, but make sure they maintain the freezers overnight. Fresh industry raised chicken is readily available in both the public market and supermarkets.

The fish market is an experience. You simply either have to learn about the signs of fresh seafood, or send a Filipina maid or wife to do the shopping. As a rule of thumb, clear eyes, red gills and not too stiff are good indicators. When buying prawns or shrimp, check that the neck area is not too soft. Green shells, better known as Mussels in the West, are farm raised and safe. Stick to the varieties that you know. The markets are full of dubious fish varieties including aquarium fish. Some common fish to westerners are Lapu Lapu (Grouper), Maya Maya (Red Snapper), Yellow Fin Tuna, Tolingan (small tuna), and white Marlin, (Tarogho).

One of the best local seafood dishes is Kinilaw, it is a Philippine version of Sashimi. Made with fresh yellow fin tuna it is delicious and safe to eat. Often it is made with Tolingan, or marlin. Tangy and spicy it is delicious. If you are buying the fish for Kinilaw, get to the market early, make sure the yellow fin head is on display and look for clear eyes and red gills.

Eating local food can be very rewarding and healthy if you follow a few guidelines. Use your own common sense and good judgment when shopping. Remember imported foods often are tempting but less fresh than what you will find in the local markets. Join the local culture and enjoy the exciting eating adventure available in the Philippines.

The Breadman

For most tourists and visitors, the bread man of Dumaguete is a well kept secret. However, among the long term residents of Dumaguete he is becoming quite well known.

He lives a simple life, getting up at 3AM to begin the daily ritual of baking bread. During the daylight hours he makes his deliveries. He mounts his specially modified motor bike and delivers to communities in the surrounding area. With two large black boxes attached to the rear like saddlebags, he services an area from Dauin south to Sibulan north, and Valencia to the West. Unlike many expats, the Breadman does not live on the beach or in the cool mountains of Valencia, but resides in the back Barangays of Dumaguete. He is living and working among Filipinos, accepting their ways and providing a much sought after service.
Peter is of German origin, from the south of Germany near Stuttgart. With his bright red hair and piercing but sensitive blue eyes he speaks in soft tones. He has lived here in Dumaguete for eight years. Peter is a quiet but engaging man, passionate about his work and willing to sit and talk about his craft. He is quite proud of his special ingredients, including fresh cow’s milk which is almost unheard of in the Philippines. When I ordered one of his Berliners, a German version of the donut, he first produced the pastry wrapped in a plastic bag. Mysteriously, he disappeared to his motorbike and returned with a plastic tub of powdered sugar. As he busily opened the container, Peter explained that the sugar must be placed on top at the last possible moment before eating.
The Bread man’s products are available at many of the local resorts, restaurants and boutique delicatessens, but he mostly remains invisible. If you are lucky enough to meet him and sample his incredible breads first hand, you will be the better for it.

Ading's Pick Quick

Off The Beaten Path

Ading’s is one of those little spots you would never find on your own. Located far from the Boulevard in Barangay Taclobo, Ading’s offers a unique combination of native and international flair. Ading’s started as a small sari sari store. Sari sari loosely means a little bit of everything. Normally this would refer to various dry goods, snacks, drinks, and candy, all displayed hanging on wires and hooks. Ading has since expanded to a sort of Sari sari, karinderya(cafeteria style native food), karaoke, and watering hole for both in the know Filipinos and foreigners. Quaintly designed in the native style, Ading’s will accommodate only about 30 customers at a time. From the outside the look is unremarkable, but once inside the atmosphere changes. Ading’s bubbly personality and the friendly staff makes you immediately feel at home.

The walls are lined with artfully framed local photography. This sampling from Dumaguete and surrounding area was part of an exhibit at the Maharlika Festival in 2005 right here in Dumaguete. The music playing is always an eclectic mix of old rock, alternative, blues, jazz, and even the local favorite dance sounds.
Drinks include Ice cold beer, and soft drinks at very reasonable prices. Snacks are always available and if your timing is right, you might just be able to sample some native cooking. The Chicken curry is awesome. Since at this point the food service is karinderya (cafeteria) style, the earlier in the day you get there the more likely you are to get a choice. Ading says she would like to eventually offer a small menu from which items could be selected. Even now if there is something you would like, Ading might just prepare it for you if there are ingredients on hand. She is like that.
If you are looking for an authentic native style experience with a twist, Ading’s offers the alternative to the tourist oriented establishments. To find Ading’s, travel west away from the BVLD on Locsin street (the one that Unitop is on). Cross the National highway, keep going past ACSAT College on the right. The road will curve and you will come to a Y. Go to the right (now Larena Dr.), take the first right which is Ceriaco Espina Street (also known locally as Bag-ong dalan). Ading’s is only a few hundred meters on the Left. If you take a tricycle, just tell the driver “Bag-ong Dalan”. It's only about one kilometer from downtown.